Comming nextt!!!Free Flow DownPipe

This is how it looks like now... will be sending it for ceramic coating before installation... exhaust thermal wraps is cheap and fast solution but gets messy as time goes by as it promotes metal thermal fatigue of the component you wrapped ( http://rukse-com.hubpages.com/hub/Ceramic-Coating-vs-Heat-Wrap) 

Personal I have encountered problems of such with my heavy machinery (excavators) but never really sought the explanation until the part broke down ... hence i have stopped using thermal wraps  .

Fitting in the 2' lift for the tub

Okeiii...last but not least.. THE TUB ( my friend reminded me) ... Oh the tub. I almost forgotten..lol
This will take around an hour or so...If  you can get a friend to help even better ... no trolley jack required


Tools ..  ?
ALL THE SAME STUFF  MINUS the NO17 socket... 


1)Tub is very straight forward . Just remove all the for bolts with a NO14 Socket , Keep the washers , you will need to reuse them if u didn't buy them when getting the M10 bolts... The front bolt is visible from the wheel arch where as the back one is near the rear bumper bracket.




2) If have a friend just get him to lift up the tub for you to fit in the spacers... or else just use the faithful trolley jack for the leverage .


Note: Do not forget the different spacer with an aligning tub recess is for the left mounting (near the fuel LID)




3) Go round and tighten  all the 4 bolts after you have fitted in all the spacers.

(front bolt)
























(rear bolt)

 (removing the bolts ... I got some assistance with the Pneumatic impact wrench )
























(original bolts....)



























( fit in the spacers and fasten the bolts

( this is where the bed rest on the chassis , the 2x2" mild steel hollow fits here... total 2pcs left and right x 60mm (L) )

 (this another place where the bed rest on the chassis , the 2x2" mild steel hollow fits here also ,  total 2pcs left and right x 60mm (L) )





















( you can actually weld this in place .. but i just tied drilled a hole a tied it in with a M10 x25mm)

 (After that screw it in with a self tapping screw for the rear extenders)

CONGRATULATIONS!!!! You have completed the physical body lift  

All that is left now putting back together the both wheel fender lining , tighten the steering column, engine cover and the bash guard and you are ready to goOOOOooooooOOOOoo !!!

Fitting in The Cab 2' Lift Blocks

This is the cream of the crop... after all the preparation work being done a 20minute coffee break...now we are at the core of the project . Fitting in the blocks this process will take around 4 hours if you are working alone


Tools


1)NO17 , NO14 socket , 
2)L handle, Long extension and Short extension
3) Ratchet Handle
4) Jacking Blocks or Timber Blocks x 3~4 pieces just for stand by 
5) Jack Stands x 2  
6) Trolley Jacks x 1( the more the merrier)


This is a picture of the front original mounting, the 2inch spacers will be placed on top, You can start at either side, But I would recommend right side first because the most vital part (the steering column) is on that side .
Unfortunately due to technical error some of my pictures on the right hand side were blurred so i had to jumble in some pictures from the left hand side to give a better explanation ,other than that both sides will go through an identical process  


1) Re install the wheels on the front,  Loosen all the bolts on the body from the cab first,
 there is 4 on each side and a total of 8 nos.
The bolts uses NO17 sockets to open, use the L -handle to open it and further  loosen it with a Ratchet handle. The fourth bolt require extension to reach.

(Left hand side first mounting)

(Left hand side first mounting bolt)

( Second bolt just behind the front wheel arch) 

(Third bolt is in roughly runs in line with the B pillar)

(Fourth cab bolt is a bit higher and near to the leaf spring bolt , use the extension to reach it)


2)Further loosen the all the bolts from 4 bolts on the right side without removing them. Place the trolley jack under the pitch weld .Support the jacking point with a rubber block or timber. Start lifting up the body slowly, make sure the body is rising linear to the amount of lift that is applied if not stop and check  eg: hooked wire or pipes.


Note:
Reason for the bolts to be intact it to prevent sudden separation of body and chassis which can damage parts due to over stretching . 


If the chassis is still stuck to the body despite no restrictions, get a screw driver or crowbar and slowly pry in between the mounting and body. This will help kick in the separation.

3) Lower the jack and fully remove  the  4 bolts and continue lifting the body till it can fit in the lift block

4) Apply some grease to the top and bottom surface of the block and bolts ( preferably synthetic based grease) before installation, especially on the tread of the bolt
Note: The bolt should be reasonably easy to tie and should be able to turn a few rounds with your fingers , if it very tight remove and realign. Make sure the tread of the bolt and nut is aligned 

5) Fit in all the spacers and give the bolts a few turns.

(repeat on all spacers)




6) After all the spacers and bolts are in place lower the jack and lightly tie them as you need some room for movement to align and install the spacer on the other side of the body .




Upon finish lifting the other side .Remove the jack and hand tighten all the 8 bolts (from left to right)

Original bolts 

Lift MY Ride: Pre Body Lift Works

Lift MY Ride: Pre Body Lift Works: After Preparation and pondering on the lift fabrication ... now its time to start removing and loosening body parts that are in the way o...

Pre Body Lift Works

After Preparation and pondering on the lift fabrication ... now its time to start removing and loosening body parts that are in the way of the body lift. I have divided the body lift installation process in to 3 parts. This part will take about 2 hours ( working alone)


Tools


1) Jack stand x 2 nos


2) Trolley jack x 1 or 2 ... the more the merrier


3) Screw drive Philips and slotted


4)NO . 10 ,14, 17 socket or T- spanner and tyre Spanner


5) Long Nose pliers 






Part 1


1) Loosen the front wheel nuts, jack up the front section of the car , rest it on the jack stands and remove the wheels . This will help clear some working space with the wheels out of the way. 





2) The front lip plays a part to prevent water from splashing on the bonnet and front windshield when you hit a water puddle ... Has to go :) to make clearance and improve approach angles . 





3) After the front lip is removed it will expose some hidden bolts holding the bash guard . There is about 8 no of NO10 bolts . A T Spanner or Ratchet will work perfect here. The yellow circle is roughly where the screws are.








4)You will see the radiator fan cover which need to be removed to make way for the fan after the lift is completed. The yellow circle are the clips , just press it in and yank the whole piece out.


I did not re install the cover. If you wan to re install it, cut the bottom rounded edge at least 50mm linearly to make way for the fan. 





(After the cover is removed)






5) Now start remove the mud flap and the inner guard of the wheel arch on the Right side. There is roughly around 8 nos of Philips(+) screw ( Yellow Circle) and 4 nos of small plugs (Red Circle). Then pull out the inner guard, dont worry if it loses it shape or folds a bit here n there it will respiring back into shape.





(After the inner guard is removed)

(Part of all the trouble taken is to gain access to the Front mounting.)




6)  IMPORTANT!!!! Loosen the steering shaft bolt before moving on to the other side . 
Failure to do so will damage the steering Column / Rack Or even U Joints when you jack up the body ! 

L Handle/ Ratchet Spanner with a NO14 Socket will do the job.   





7) If you notice at the location where the mudflap is before it is removed there is a wire clipped to the chassis. Remove that clip and just lightly tie it with a cable tie first, you can tighten it later.
Navaras with ABS! look for a wire near the upper arm and un clip it from the chassis

8) When you are done repeat Step 5 on the left side wheel arch and when you are done unclip the fuel hose from the chassis near the firewall with a slotted screwdriver.






9) Last but not least , pop the hood and remove the engine cover .There is 2 numbers of   No10 bolts holding it down .After u unscrew it ,Slightly tilt up the cover and pull it outwards . The high lighted area will press against the radiator cover because of the lift . Leave it aside you can grind it off later when the lift is done and fit it back or just raise the mounting of the cover to clear the radiator cover

Now U are ready to LIFTTTTT!!!!

Navara D40 2" Body Lift KIt Preparation

Hello Guys!! After weeks of sleepless nights, planning and R n D... I bring to you..."DIY Body Lift KIt " as a guide or reference for paranoid and Enthusiast who believe " When you want it done good, Do IT Yourself

!".  Please fell free to comment ( Constructively ) or ask questions if in doubt.

You can get your local engineering shop or any workshop with a lathe machine to fabricate this or contact me to fabricate this kit for you. 

General this what you need

  

Nissan Navara D40 Dual Cab , 2012 6 Spd Manual 

What you NEED For the lift

 1)  2" Lift spacers

a-   75 mm  ( Dai ) x 50mm (Ht) Aluminium Spacers    8 pcs 

b-   50 mm  ( Dai ) x 50mm (Ht) Aluminium Spacers    4 pcs

c-   50mm x 50mm x 75mm (L) Mild steel Square Hollow      4 pcs

I personally prefer Aluminium due to its durability ,high impact strength and weight . 

You may choose to use Teflon, Steel  or other types of material to own discretion, but bear in mind high impact strength is the priority of the material.  

2)   Bolts

a-   M10 1.25 x 100mm and washer (Class 8.8 or 10.6)        4pcs

b-   M12 1.25 x 100mm and washer (Class 8.8 or 10.6)        8pcs

   

I have attached a Sketch so you can get a clear picture of size and dimension of the spacer you need to fabricate for the lift . All of it is quite straight forward Except one piece that requires a little extra machining , Which is the Passenger side tub mount that has a small aligning tube protruding out 15 mm , Machine the spacer accordingly to recieve the tube to sit inside.


All the Best !!! Take your Time ... Rushing Wont Help anything!!!... Cheers

Comming NexT .... Installation!!!!