EGR blanking !!!

Tools required for this job

1) L- box lever and  100 mm extender

2) No 14 box  

3)  Ring spanner . NO 14 (bothside Ring)

4) Common Ring No.14

5) Gardening gloves

6) WD40 0r similar 

To my recommendation , the best time to do this is just after some normal driving, wait about 10 minutes . Do take precaution as all part are very hot, wear gloves to prevent being burnt.

Start with the nut on exhaust manifold side.  Before attempting to open give it a few shots of WD40. This will cool down the whole nut and stud. The cooling effect will cause the nut and stud to shrink  making it easier to remove. When you turn chances are the whole stud and nut will come out together .

This is hole will nicely fit the extender and L handle

There is a hole that will snuggly fit the No 14 box and extender

 

 For the bottom screw . It can be reached with a ring spanner from the bottom. For those of you who did not lift their truck, use a floor jack and lift it a few inches for clearance


WHEN FITTING IN THE BLANKING PLATE ON THIS SIDE, PLACE THE GASKET IN FIRST THEN ONLY THE PLATE..to prevent leakage
Sequent  
1ST.. GASKET
2ND.. PLATE
 3RD .. EGR PIPE

On the other side of the EGR pipe is quite straight forward just remove the screws and fit in the plate before the gasket to prevent leakage . 

Sequent  

1st Gasket

2nd Plate

3rd EGR pipe

Inner Guard scraping Solution

 This is before the inner guard is bent in

after you remove the mudguard and and inner guard u will see this

bend up the metal sheet just after the screw  

 Cut along the edge with a sharp blade

Push in the inner guard till it can go in anymore and mark the protruding section

Fold in Along the marked line

Heating it with a heater gun will ease the folding process. Please wear gloves while folding

 after folding the inner guard

 Screw it in with self tapping screw to hold the inner guard 

Comming nextt!!!Free Flow DownPipe

This is how it looks like now... will be sending it for ceramic coating before installation... exhaust thermal wraps is cheap and fast solution but gets messy as time goes by as it promotes metal thermal fatigue of the component you wrapped ( http://rukse-com.hubpages.com/hub/Ceramic-Coating-vs-Heat-Wrap) 

Personal I have encountered problems of such with my heavy machinery (excavators) but never really sought the explanation until the part broke down ... hence i have stopped using thermal wraps  .

Fitting in the 2' lift for the tub

Okeiii...last but not least.. THE TUB ( my friend reminded me) ... Oh the tub. I almost forgotten..lol
This will take around an hour or so...If  you can get a friend to help even better ... no trolley jack required


Tools ..  ?
ALL THE SAME STUFF  MINUS the NO17 socket... 


1)Tub is very straight forward . Just remove all the for bolts with a NO14 Socket , Keep the washers , you will need to reuse them if u didn't buy them when getting the M10 bolts... The front bolt is visible from the wheel arch where as the back one is near the rear bumper bracket.




2) If have a friend just get him to lift up the tub for you to fit in the spacers... or else just use the faithful trolley jack for the leverage .


Note: Do not forget the different spacer with an aligning tub recess is for the left mounting (near the fuel LID)




3) Go round and tighten  all the 4 bolts after you have fitted in all the spacers.

(front bolt)
























(rear bolt)

 (removing the bolts ... I got some assistance with the Pneumatic impact wrench )
























(original bolts....)



























( fit in the spacers and fasten the bolts

( this is where the bed rest on the chassis , the 2x2" mild steel hollow fits here... total 2pcs left and right x 60mm (L) )

 (this another place where the bed rest on the chassis , the 2x2" mild steel hollow fits here also ,  total 2pcs left and right x 60mm (L) )





















( you can actually weld this in place .. but i just tied drilled a hole a tied it in with a M10 x25mm)

 (After that screw it in with a self tapping screw for the rear extenders)

CONGRATULATIONS!!!! You have completed the physical body lift  

All that is left now putting back together the both wheel fender lining , tighten the steering column, engine cover and the bash guard and you are ready to goOOOOooooooOOOOoo !!!

Fitting in The Cab 2' Lift Blocks

This is the cream of the crop... after all the preparation work being done a 20minute coffee break...now we are at the core of the project . Fitting in the blocks this process will take around 4 hours if you are working alone


Tools


1)NO17 , NO14 socket , 
2)L handle, Long extension and Short extension
3) Ratchet Handle
4) Jacking Blocks or Timber Blocks x 3~4 pieces just for stand by 
5) Jack Stands x 2  
6) Trolley Jacks x 1( the more the merrier)


This is a picture of the front original mounting, the 2inch spacers will be placed on top, You can start at either side, But I would recommend right side first because the most vital part (the steering column) is on that side .
Unfortunately due to technical error some of my pictures on the right hand side were blurred so i had to jumble in some pictures from the left hand side to give a better explanation ,other than that both sides will go through an identical process  


1) Re install the wheels on the front,  Loosen all the bolts on the body from the cab first,
 there is 4 on each side and a total of 8 nos.
The bolts uses NO17 sockets to open, use the L -handle to open it and further  loosen it with a Ratchet handle. The fourth bolt require extension to reach.

(Left hand side first mounting)

(Left hand side first mounting bolt)

( Second bolt just behind the front wheel arch) 

(Third bolt is in roughly runs in line with the B pillar)

(Fourth cab bolt is a bit higher and near to the leaf spring bolt , use the extension to reach it)


2)Further loosen the all the bolts from 4 bolts on the right side without removing them. Place the trolley jack under the pitch weld .Support the jacking point with a rubber block or timber. Start lifting up the body slowly, make sure the body is rising linear to the amount of lift that is applied if not stop and check  eg: hooked wire or pipes.


Note:
Reason for the bolts to be intact it to prevent sudden separation of body and chassis which can damage parts due to over stretching . 


If the chassis is still stuck to the body despite no restrictions, get a screw driver or crowbar and slowly pry in between the mounting and body. This will help kick in the separation.

3) Lower the jack and fully remove  the  4 bolts and continue lifting the body till it can fit in the lift block

4) Apply some grease to the top and bottom surface of the block and bolts ( preferably synthetic based grease) before installation, especially on the tread of the bolt
Note: The bolt should be reasonably easy to tie and should be able to turn a few rounds with your fingers , if it very tight remove and realign. Make sure the tread of the bolt and nut is aligned 

5) Fit in all the spacers and give the bolts a few turns.

(repeat on all spacers)




6) After all the spacers and bolts are in place lower the jack and lightly tie them as you need some room for movement to align and install the spacer on the other side of the body .




Upon finish lifting the other side .Remove the jack and hand tighten all the 8 bolts (from left to right)

Original bolts